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jefferson11
06-30-2009, 01:52 PM
Hexamita Treatment, The Long Stringy White Poop

In recent years our beloved flowerhorn has an increasing ailment that is still not clearly understood.
A few things we know about this disease is it can lead to a lost of weight and eventually death.
How do you know if your fish is suffering from this disease?
There are 2 absolute indicators for you to pinpoint this disease:
1. Signs of "THE LONG STRINGY WHITE POOP".
2. A total lost of interest in all forms of foods.
These two indicators must go together in order to confirm the symthom of hexamita.
If your fish has the white poop, it may be just the diet. Raw market shrimp/prawns sometimes will produce white stringy poop. So if your fish has the white poop and still retains his appetite, don't freak out; he's OK.
On the other hand if the fish does not have the white stringy poop but is not interested in food, it may just be poor water quality or something else you may need to look into.

What is Hexamita?
Hexamita is a flagellated protozoa that lives in the intestinal tract of the fish.
Not much is known about them but my theory is. They are ever present in the intestinal tract of fish very much like a certain strain of E. coli bacteria found in our own intestinal tract that helps our digestion. So in my opinion, Hexamita coexists with the fish and may benefit the fish's digestion system.
You may ask, how the hell is this possible that Hex can be good and bad at the same time?
Again my opinion and theory is this. Hex may be beneficial to aid digestion and nutrient absorbtion, an over population of hex will overwhelm the fish's intestinal tract. So the fish's immune system may be the key to control the hex population. Hex mostly occur due to poor water quality, a sudden change in water temperature, and a long haul shipment of the fish which are all stress inducing situation that would cause the fish's immune system to be weaken. Once the immune system is weaken, it can not keep the hex population in check. And like all simple cellular organisms, they multiple very quickly. The over-population of hexamita protozoa will cause irritation of the intestinal tract. Within days, the raw intestinal tract is shed and excretes out the fish's anus. Hence the product of "THE LONG STRINGY WHITE POOP".
Being in this condition with a sour stomach, the fish may try to eat but the food is causing more pain to the intestinal tract. This pain may cause the fish to totally avoid all forms of food.
There you have it. My personal opinion and theory of this dreadful disease.
Now how can we help our fish?
Again, this is my personal method and there may be other methods out there that you can also try.
I have to admit, my method hasn't failed me yet from treating all of the cichlids that I ever owned and raised.

This is my 10 day treatment for Hexamita:
1. Use a small hospital tank around 10gal.
2. Add a small sponge filter or just an air stone.
3. Raise the temp up to 90F or a little more.
4. Add half cup of salt per 10gal.
5. 1 capsule or 1/4 teaspoon of metronidazole, mix it with a small amount of acetone to create a slurry and dump it in the hospital tank. If you can find dimetronidazole, it is much better and don't require acetone.
6. Do 50% water change daily, dose metro daily, and replenish with 1/4 cup of salt daily. Make sure your water change is also 90F or a little hotter than the tank temp.
7. Treat for 5 days. Do not feed him during this treatment. But you can try to give him just one pellet on the 6th day if you like. If he eats, do not stop the treatment, just feed him very little from the 6th day to the 10th day.
8. On the 11th day do a 50% water change as always with the same temp of 90F or more but you will need to lower your heater back down to 82F or whatever temp you like to keep your fish. This will complete the treatment.
9. Once you are satified with the overall health of the fish, you can move him back into his home.

Some explainations:
. The usage of a small hospital tank is for the ease of water changes and a conservation of the expensive medication.
. The lack of filter or any filtration is because you are going to do a 50% water change without any feeding so the amonia level is very low.
. The demand of a high temperature is because metro is only affective at high temperature. Most heaters don't go to 90F or more but some do such as the Ebo Jagers and a few others.
. The use of salt is because salt will increase the osmotic pressure in the water which helps the absorbtion of metro through the gills of the fish. And it also sooths the slime coat.
. The use of a small amount of acetone is to dissolve metro in water since metro is insoluable in water; dimetro is water soluable so no need to use acetone with dimetro.
. DO NOT heat up your hospital tank before you introduce the fish!!! You should get your hospital tank ready and at the same temperature of the fish's environment. Then transfer the fish to the hospital tank and increase the temperature.

Best wishes to you and your pet and please provide any feed backs.



Reference
http://www.flowerhorncraze.com/Hexamita-Treatment-t54757.html

share lang po

thankyou

more power to palhs

malsaq
06-03-2012, 09:10 PM
Hi, I live in Pakistan and my juvenile flowerhorn (4 inches) is sick from hexamita, passing long stringy white poop and has stopped eating since last 4 days. It has lost much of its colour and is grown weak. I tried the Metronidazole treatment but the tablet available here does not dissolve in water, it is not available in powder form. Same is the case with Flagyl. But oxytetracycline Hcl is available in capsule form which dissolves in water. Can I use this to treat my fish? Can u pls tell me how to treat him with oxytetra?
Thanks.
Aslam, Karachi

3rd_world
06-03-2012, 10:35 PM
Effective din ata yung azoo anti endoparasite.

ally2000
06-09-2012, 09:53 PM
sir pls refer to this mode of treatment http://www.mypalhs.com/forums/showthread.php?50857-Mebendazole-And-Metronidazole. it is cheaper and faster recovery. note: you can omit the malachite green treatment. i found that a combo of metro and meben treatment can give a three days recovery instead of close to one month treatment with metro alone.

malsaq
06-11-2012, 08:58 PM
sir pls refer to this mode of treatment http://www.mypalhs.com/forums/showthread.php?50857-Mebendazole-And-Metronidazole. it is cheaper and faster recovery. note: you can omit the malachite green treatment. i found that a combo of metro and meben treatment can give a three days recovery instead of close to one month treatment with metro alone.

Thanks for your help. Its been two days since I started the Meben/Metro treatment; so far there is no change in my FH - he refuses to eat anything and is growing weaker. He has lost almost all colour. Since this is a six-day treatment, I am hoping that things will turn around in the next three days, keeping my fingers crossed. I dont want him to die!
Thankx again.
Aslam, Karachi

ally2000
06-12-2012, 10:54 PM
i hope you follow the direction in giving the medicine.can you please post a picture of your fh and the tank his in. good luck.

malsaq
06-16-2012, 04:08 AM
Brother ally2000,
No change in my FH after seven days of meben/metro treatment. I made sure that I followed the directions exactly as stated, so no problem there. Worst part is that he is still passing the long, stringy white poo. One of my friends (who sells aquariums and fishes and has lot of experience) has taken away my sick FH today and will now try to treat him. So I will keep u posted on developments. Many thankx for your time and good advice.

malsaq
06-16-2012, 04:13 AM
Sorry, also I forgot to mention that he has not eaten anything since the last 16 days. I tried to give him sinking pellets but he does not eat. That is why I decided to give him to my friend.
Cheers.

malsaq
06-17-2012, 04:29 AM
Quick update with some good news. Today my FH, which is now in my friend's house, started eating. He tried to eat one pellet but has much trouble chewing and spat it out but he did manage to eat a few shreds of Bloodworm. For your information my friend also took with him the hospital tank (18 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches) in which I was treating the FH with meben/metro treatment so this treatment really works. He is not passing the white poo also and I hope he is on way to recovery. Please let me know if I should still continue with the metronidazole treatment, for how many days and water changes. Since he has grown weak, what should I feed him and how many times daily. When he was well I used to feed him twice each day. Unfortunately I do not have camera but will try to arrange one and post his picture soon. In the meanwhile, please accept my many thanks and please do try to reply me soon.